- Tubing
- From 1959 every Paramount was built with Reynolds 531 double-butted tubing. Look for the Reynolds 531 sticker on the seat tube, which from 1968 is the version with the TI (Tube Investments) mark. Stickers wear off, so a missing one isn't proof of a repaint.
- The frame
- Schwinn used the ornate Nervex Professional lugs, apart from a short switch to Prugnat lugs in the late 1960s, after which it went back to Nervex but kept the Prugnat bottom bracket shell. Ask for close photos of the head, seat and bottom bracket lugs. Check the chromed dropouts and fork tips for rust and pitting.
- Threads and standards
- We couldn't confirm the bottom bracket threading from a Schwinn source, so check it. Ask the seller what's stamped on the bottom bracket cups. 1.370 x 24 is English and takes the widest range of parts, and 36 x 24 is Italian.
- Wheels
- Schwinn sold the P13 on tubulars, while the touring P10 came on 27 x 1 1/4 in clinchers. Plenty of P13s have been switched to clinchers since, so look at the rims in the photos. The rear spacing isn't in our sources, so measure before you buy a wheel.
- Parts it came with
- Joe Magnani set up the Paramount builds around Campagnolo, and the P13 came with Campagnolo sidepulls and tubulars. Paramounts could be ordered with custom geometry and parts, so builds vary. Go through the photos part by part and note what's been swapped.
- Dating it
- From 1959 to about 1979 the serial is stamped on the left rear dropout. From 1966 it reads month letter (A is January, I is skipped), year digit, then the frame count, so H7634 is August 1976. A P1, P2 or P3 stamp on the bottom bracket marks a frame contract-built by Pioneer Manufacturing from 1971.
- Paint and decals
- Paramounts got hand-sprayed paint with pinstriping by Joe Brilando and later Adam Smith. The 1968 seat-tube panel added Olympic rings and the Schwinn Bicycle Company name, and through the 1970s Schwinn moved to a block typeface with two sets of World Championship stripes. A fully chromed frame was a factory option.
- Safety jobs
- Old tubulars and their glue shouldn't be trusted, so plan on new tires or a fresh glue job. Replace hardened brake pads and pull the stem and seatpost to check they aren't seized.
Check the listing photos against these lists, and ask the seller about anything you can’t see. Swapped or missing original parts should come off the price if originality matters to you. For replacements, see our vintage components guide.